Ten-high recommended updates + Estimated Job times

Hi All, I am currently running the Ten-High 60w CO2 laser that runs on the M2 Nano board with Corel Laser. I am new to the world of lasers, so there is a sense of learning as I move forward. I have recently placed my ordered on the Cohesion3D laserboard and camera.

I have found that I seem to be spending my nights (to 3am) trying to quote a number of clients jobs. It turns out that 90% of quotes I sent out; I fail to get the business. I need something that will analyse my drawings and estimate how long it would take to complete the job? I am not sure if there is a way to do this via the lightburn software or if I need to upgrade the controller that is fixed onto the laser machine?

While the machine functions, I have a number of complaints, some of them are my own fault for not having know what functionality I wanted from the laser. I would love to get some guidance on recommended upgrades that with will transform my machine and is compatible with my machine and the Cohesion laserboard.

LightBurn will show you a preview with an estimated run time of any file that is loaded.

I would recommend get an air assist laser head if you do not already have one. As well, a rotary attachment will allow yo to engrave cylindrical items such as glasses or bottles. Cohesion3D makes a very nice rotary unit. If your machine does not have one, get a mA meter as the first upgrade for your laser, it will allow you to set a safe upper limit for the current being sent to the tube.

Thanks Anthony, I am please to hear that Light-burn will show be a preview of the run time. This will save me tonnes of time.

The TEN-HIGH came with a rotary unit (See image on amazon) which is awful! The instructions they provided on the website does not work. When I was ready to engrave I would set a preview to make sure it is correct placed over the bottle. The preview would be accurate, when I hit start the laser head would just move to the left and say there. When I got in touch with ten-high they said I should not use the preview function. So I would be interested in the rotary device but I need to know or see a video of how to use it.

With regards to the mA meter, I understand what it is for but not quite sure how to use it? apologies if that sounds a bit dull but just trying to get my head round a)how it works, b)how I would use it daily?

You would only use the mA meter when you are first learning what the different power settings are creating in mA. For example 80% power in LightBurn may equate to 20mA, 50% power in LB may be 10mA. Once you know what your safe power levels are that will not overdrive the tube, you kind of do not need the meter. Except when the tube starts losing power and you may need to turn up the power say to 85% to get the 20mA.

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nicely explained :slight_smile: I have dropped Ray a message, if my order is not already shipped then I can get him to add the extras on.

Is there video of the rotary tool in use with lightburn?

Hi Mudassar,

You can learn more about the rotary on the product page.

You can also check out the LightBurn manual section with information on setting up the rotary.

Yes, we can still add items to your order. I’ll arrange it a little later.

Hi Pete,

I finally manage to get the board connected along with the LCD screen on my ten-high machine. Although everything seems to be working, I noticed that when i execute a cut or engrave from lightburn the laser head moves and starts to do something but there is no power /laser from the head. If I switch on the RED laser switch at the front, and execute the job, there is still no power/laser. If I manually put the power up from the original power control panel, then execute the job, I can see power/laser from the head. How do I fix this so that the power is controlled from the board?


Hi Deen, it sounds like you are able to set the power using the digital panel, then run a job and the laser does fire, but you want to control the power via LightBurn. Is that correct?

What the digital panel is doing is setting the maximum power that your laser will output, then in LightBurn when you set a percentage of power it will control the laser between 0 and 100% of what your digital panel is set to.

So if you set your digital panel to 50% and then set LightBurn to 50% you’ll actually get 50% of 50%, which might be very low power. (Anthony explained this above.)

If you have not yet installed the 30mA Current Meter you should do that next. It will allow you to know the true output of your laser tube. Once you know that, you can use the digital panel to set a safe limit and then allow LightBurn to control power within that limit.

You can read a further explanation in this article:

Thanks Guys, apologies I will have this tested tomorrow - Since I had to attend a family funeral. I will install the MA meter next - is there a recommended cable thickness I need to get?

The mA meter gets installed on the return line from the laser, so the current is fairly low. Something in the range of 14 to 18 gauge wire should be fine.

Here are two guides for installing the meter:

Thanks Pete

Do I still need my existing current indication panel or can this be replaced with the LCD Panel i purchased?

The GLCD (Graphic LCD) Control Panel can display the machine position and status of your laser, allow you to control it using the built-in knob/ encoder, and allow you to run jobs on the laser without a computer attached. It will not display the amount of current the laser is outputting.

When you install the mA meter, it will allow you to see the amount of current the laser is outputting in milliamps. Now, to set the amount of current your laser is outputting, you will need to use either a potentiometer or the digital panel that came with your machine. If you have the digital panel already there, and it works, you can certainly use it to set the power output. The issue is that it will just display a percentage or power with no actual measurement of current. That’s where the mA meter comes in, to display the true value of the output in milliamps.

Most people find the potentimeter easier to use than the digital panel, but either will work. (You really do need one or the other to limit the output from the laser to a safe level to prevent damage to the tube.)

Hi Pete

I have dropped you a separate email with a video showing the gantry crash when I frame an object. You may have already come across this but it seems when I frame anything, it seems to start from the left middle of the page and work its way round eventually crashing into the gantry and the top right.

I assume this is something to do with Origin and Home. My origin is set to the bottom left and my home is top left.

I have a client job to run on Monday and I am a little worried I won’t be able to do the job if I can’t fix this.

You can see in the video that I have a L shaped bar cut out to make X=0 and Y=0 which I made on the old nano board. The laser pointer is now further back by what looks like approx 10mm in x and y. I tried to use the laser often feature under device settings but it does not seem to do anything.

My bed size setup is 400x 300

What i need:

  • to stop gantry crashing

  • set position 0,0 to top left

  • to reset or use the existing L shape frame for x=,y= to be set to top left. This means that I can slide the material onto the bed, lock it into the top left corner and know where x=0, y=0 sits.

Hi Pete

I believe this page describes the problem I am facing, however I am not sure how this would set 0,0 in the top left corner?

When i try to frame an object it thinks that start is 0, 200 and as a result crashes into the gantry on the return.

Update, I have modified the config file to set the x at 455 and Y at 305 (even though my bed is 400 x 300 it looks like i have a bit more space).

Looking at the bed I can now see that the laser head is moving around the bed without crashing into the gantry.

My Home position is x = 0, y =304.998. See LCD Panel image

How do I set X= 0 and Y=0 at the top left?

If i can do this then I laser cut a NEW L shape point x=0,y=0 which will allow me to slide the material onto bed into the correct position each time.

0,0 is always the bottom left on Smoothie machines.

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Deen, if you are able to move the laser head around now without crashing that’s good!

As loather mentioned origin will always be 0,0. This is how the Smoothie firmware works.

Home will depend on where the endstop switches are. On the majority of machines we deal with it is in the left rear. This is how your machine is set up. The home (left rear) has X at 0 and Y at 305.

(Yes, the GLCD shows 304.998 which is is 0.002mm less than 305 but we’re going to round up.)

We do have a page in our Knowledge Base that explains this:

If you home your laser it will go to 0,305. You should be able to do what you need to as far as running jobs, aligning material, etc. just fine. LightBurn has many options for where a job will start from.

Hopefully that helps explain things as far as origin and home.

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Thanks Pete, I have been using the machine over the past few days and have noticed that things are quite different. There are many great improvements here but one of the things I noticed was that when I ran a previous project on acrylic at 400mms at 50% power as I did on my nano board, I dont seem to be getting the same finish in engraving.I use to get a clean white frosted finish on a name whereas now its more scrappy lines infilled. Is 400mms much faster than it use to be?

Here is a little test I did as I had feeling something was out of alignment when I cut my x=0, y=304.998

The image shows 5mm offset lines from the x axis and y axies. The shaded box to the very left was set at x=0, y=304.998. So why do i have lines above x=0??? Either there should be nothing there or the shaded box needed to be higher.

Any thoughts on what may have gone wrong and how I could fix this?