K40 Moshi to Cohesion3D Install

Machine: K40 with Moshi MS10105 V4.5

Board: Cohesion3D LaserBoard

Firmware: I have a new board and I’m using whatever it came with

Problem/ Question: So after pulling my hair out with Moshi I decided to purchase a Cohesion3D laserboard to replace it. Before it arrives i wanted to make sure i know everything that is needed to install and get what needs downloading downloaded so i can get the machine up and running fairly quickly.

I have read other installation topics on this forum but i have seen none which match my board exactly, and although im sure these will do the job I figured i’d ask anyway.

Also, if it makes any difference i’m using an old HP laptop running Windows 7 (32Bit).

See images below for reference…


OK, so firstly I am no expert, but I installed my board yesterday, and I’ll tell you what I think, but double check.

First, read this >> https://cohesion3d.com/knowledgebase/k40-with-m2nano-cohesion3d-laserboard-installation/

You’ll find your wiring confiog around 3/4 of the way down. You’ll be glad to know it’s the easier of the two!

I may skip some steps here, but you’ll get the gist…

The ribbon cable pulls out of your board - be gentle and with a little side to side tugging it’ll pop right out. It’s a bare ribbon - the connectors are on the board - confusing I know, but the connector doesn’t come with the ribbon.

Unclip the multi-coloured one and the power one. Your board should now be free of any wiring.

Take the mounting panel and board out, there’s a couple of nuts/bolts - you’ll need to get under the machine a little most likely.

Unscrew the mounting bolts from the board - don’t lose the plastic risers or the nuts/bolts - you’ll need them later.

Most likely you’ll need to drill new holes to mount it, but placement is vital. Put the metal mounting board back in its original position (don’t screw it down), and use a sharpie to mark on the edge of the mounting panel where the USB cutout on the the frame is.

Take the mounting panel out, lay your board so that the power and USB connectors of the C3D board are located where the panel cut out that you just marked are.

Use a sharpie to pop a dot where your holes need to be. Pilot hole, then larger bit to size needed. 5mm IIRC.

De-bur the holes, then using the plastic risers and bolts from before mount the board to the mounting panel.

Now, on to the actually easy bit. Your ribbon goes in the ribbon holder on the left, and the multi-coloured one goes on to the Y axis, all as described in the link above.

Then you have two choices - you can either use the power clip as you have it and pop it on the board, or you can do it the way that I did it as I didn’t have the clip - but I’d only do that if you have the ability to crimp or tin the ends of your wires, as they’ll go in to the screw down terminals.

Once all that is done re-set the mounting panel in the machine, pop the power cable in to the card (but not in to the wall outlet yet), drop in the SD card that came with it, then plug in the wall outlet.

Robert’s your mother’s brother!


Nice one! Cheers for this Johnathan, appreciate the help, and i’m glad it’s the easier of the two variants.

I have the software side of things ready to go, i’m just itching to get this board mounted and incinerate everything to do with MOSHI! :angry:

How are you finding the laser now you’ve swapped it out?

Mine is having a few issues that I’m working out with the C3D team, but when it ran initially it was like having a whole new machine - it was what I had hoped I would have rather than the hideous ginger stepchild that I actually bought :joy: . Fan-blooming-tastic!

Really? Anything you reckon i’ll come into trouble with? And I can imagine it giving the machine a more professional solution, heard nothing but good things about it!

Haha! “Hideous ginger stepchild” got me :rofl:

Hi Matthew, welcome to the forum!

Make sure you go through our Getting Started guide. It has instructions that show control boards for a few different K40 lasers, and while they may not match yours exactly, you should get the general idea of how the upgrade works.

You’ll find a link to installing the drivers you will need if you are running a version of Windows earlier than Windows 10.

The page also has links to all of our documentation as well if you really want to do some reading before your board arrives. :slight_smile:

Nah, there’s nothing that you should worry about. I think I’ve got a few heads scratching lol.

As a ginger, I can say that btw :joy:

Matthew, after looking at the photo of your board again I noticed the 6 pin connector… You might want to check this guide as well.

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Cheers for the links Pete.

Appreciate you all helping me out, some revision before the board arrives.

I might be asking a stupid question, however, is there anything else needed for the PWM side of things with the pot? It seems it is all plug and play…but you never know.

We did our best to make things plug and play with the upgrade. :slight_smile:

Check out these two pages for more info on PWM and how the potentiometer plays into it.

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