"I was referring to also doing the front panel rewiring and IIRC you said you no longer have a Laser Test button on the front panel. These laser power supplies have 2 distinct sections to them where one is all the safety, test, enable and power setting stuff and then the voltages and laser PWM control connector(24V/GND/5V/L). When you change all the first stuff and then have problems with the 2nd stuff it’s hours figuring out what you did, what’s wrong and how to solve the problem.
Especially when you are going just on step-by-step instructions and little understanding of the wiring and what is electrically going on. So it is ALWAYS better to get a system working then add individual updates one at a time testing them as you go."
I should have said in my original posting that I had used the machine before upgrading. I did use the machine on and off for a few days to get used to settings, alignment of the laser, and trying burn samples on different material and thicknesses. I used K40 Whisperer when checking things out. I then installed all the new parts I bought to upgrade the machine (laser board and GLCD and Ma meter).
I kept the power supply that came with the machine and then switched out the control panel (I called it that. It has manual power level buttons) and switched out the factory laser board with this new one. I also installed the GLCD and Ma gauge.
After checking all the wiring and double checking the steps on the webpages on how to connect everything is when I first powered it on with the new parts to check things. That is when I had the 2 red LEDS on the laser board and green on the others. The machines internal clear light and red dot pointer came on. The red indicator light on the 40watt power unit was also on. There is a small “test” button on the power unit on its board near the plug in connectors. I never touched it. The original control panel had a test fire button that I used when I first burned some samples before upgrading.
“Do you went into your Windows file Explorer(is that what they still call it) and checked the box to show hidden filename extensions? THAT is what I was mentioning… Microsoft by default hides things from you and it’s a PIA because it screws up tools which require a file named exactly “config.txt” and Microsoft shows you icons saying “config.txt” but on the disk it is named “config.txt.txt”.”
I thought you installed Smoothieware on your controller by just copying a file named EXACTLY “firmware.bin” to it. What Smoothieware software did you install on Windows? At this point we have no clue as to if the controller is correctly booting Smoothieware and has a valid configuration to startup correctly.
I was following the links on the pages and went to the page:
I have Win 7 and it installed the driver and gave me a successful message when done (a pop up). I didn’t have to use the “manual install” as it seemed to install ok. It also showed a “ready to use” after the install wizard finished. I’ll post a screen shot.
The file “config.txt” is on the SD card. I tried looking for hidden files and there is nothing it shows. The pic I posted earlier is what is on the card. It is named correctly as far as I can tell with no hidden files.
“Earlier it sounded like you’d decided installing the mA meter the controller and display was not a big deal but it sounds like you only installed the GLCD after you couldn’t figure out how to get the controller working with LightBurn. There are only 2 ribbon cables and well labeled connectors for the ribbon cables so unless the GLCD was being shorted out(electrically) with the mounting screws or something else it should have had no effect on the controller. I hope your ribbon cables were keyed so they could only be plugged in one way and they were cables which came with the board and display. I’m guessing you then removed the ribbon cables from the controller and it still would not power up and show the green LEDs? I hope you NEVER plugged anything into the controller while it was powered up. You’d be asking for blowing out the controller if you did not remove power when connecting things.”
I had installed all the items into the new panel before powering on the machine. Everything was mounted and ready. The ribbon cables are correctly installed (I had to remove them in my pic showing the LEDS color farther above) They can only go into the plugs 1 way. The little “jumper board” they plug into is also in the correct spot as in the webpages pictures.
I made sure to allow a minute or two after powering off to plug/unplug anything as I noticed when powering off that the LEDS on the laser board, and the light on the machines power unit, stay on for a few seconds after powering off. I wanted to make sure the power had completely stopped to everything before plugging in or unplugging anything.
“yes, those other things are wired to the other connectors on the laser power supply but they effect laser operation. Again, BAD idea changing things and no knowing what each does or being able to test things as you go. As for the EXE program, do you not know what that program does? Was it not explained when you downloaded it and ran it the first time? I’ve seen some of what Ray(owner of C3D) has posted and he is VERY thorough with instructions and explaining things. And the Smoothie/Smoothieware site also has instructions on what firmware.bin is, that there are many versions of that and what config.txt is. C3D would have one specifically for the K40 with the correct firmware.bin file and correctly configured config.txt file.”
The EXE program I was referring to is the downloaded program. It shows: smoothieware-us-b-driver-v1.1.exe
It was on the page: http://smoothieware.org/windows-drivers
I don’t see where it explains anything about what it does, or how it runs on that page. It just shows how to install it. It appeared straight forward and the windows install wizard ran and installed it.
I’ll attach a pic of it showing it installed on the computer.
“You keep saying “power on the GLCD” but the ones I’ve used have no extra power control at all and they are powered through the ribbon cables. Regarding the GLCD, did you get a version of firmware.bin which is for use with the GLCD? Sometimes those signals in the EXP1 and EXP2 are used for other things instead of working with a GLCD so you must have/install a firmware.bin which has been compiled to work with a GLCD.”
I’m not sure how to word it correctly. I say “power on” as I tried to turn the knob, and tried to gently press on the knob (it makes a click when pressing) after trying multiple times to get my computer to “see” the machine. I thought the knob is an on-off feature to power on the screen as well as work as a selector in the menus.
The screen never came on at any time or on any machine power ups. It simple stayed “off” at all times. I thought the knob had to “turn it on”. I had not tried to “turn it on” until after taking the pics. I assumed it would be off until after the lightburn software connected and I would have to manually “turn on” the GLCD. I didn’t know it was supposed to power on by itself.
The ribbons are connected correctly and the small little jumper board they connect to is positioned correctly per the pics in the installation process. The only time I didn’t have the ribbons connected with power on the laser board was when I took the pic of the LED colors. I couldn’t find an angle to take the pic at to see the LEDS with the ribbons plugged in. I made sure to Never plug or unplug anything while power was on.
The GLCD is connected just like in the pics. The GLCD does have a smashed little connector. I had assumed it was fine as the solder points look ok. I will use a pic of it from the site and circle the little connector. It is at an angle and pushed over a little. The solder joints don’t look broken, it’s just bent. There was a lot of items in the package and they way it was all put together had other items on top of that part. Everything was overly wrapped in bubble wrap but it still managed to squeeze everything.
So its possible the GLCD is what caused the laserboard to now show a short? I had powered the unit on and off probably around 5-6 times over a period of a half hour. The LEDS on the laser board were working until I tried clicking the knob on the GLCD. That is when I noticed the laser board went to only a VMOT red light and nothing else.
If my volt readings in the top of the post were ok for the laser board, shouldn’t the GLCD have been “on”? So it is sounding like the GLCD was DOA and it caused the laser board to short.
How would I test the GLCD if it never turned on even though everything was connected correctly?
Now that the laser board shows a short (red VMOT) How do I test it? Is it fixable?