3V3 LED showing red, not green

I have a K40 machine and bought the Cohesion3D LaserBoard. I am using Win 7 so I installed the Smoothie software. I see the LEDS on the board are working, BUT 3V3 is red. It is not as bright as VMOT though. The other LEDS are green and flash according to what I read on the page showing the LEDs and how to id problems.

I then found a page on this forum showing how to test spots on the board dated back in 19’. In that post is said/showed the following info:

In this diagram I show:

Ground (Gnd) with Black Square
VMOT Rail with Red Square
5v with the Green Square. Touch it with the probe from the right so you do not touch any other pin, and be careful not to touch the SD card casing.
3.3v with the Orange Squares - either on the SERIAL Header pin #2 from the left, or the head of the AMS1117 component - whichever you can access easier.

With the board powered on, and your multimeter in voltage measurement mode (mine has maximums of 2, 20, 200v and I choose the 200v mode for this) please place and keep the negative probe on Ground.

Place the positive probe on VMOT. You should see a steady 24v.
Place the positive probe on 5v. You should see a steady 5v.
Place the positive probe on 3.3v. You should see a steady 3.3v

For each of those, please tell me what happens.

Now, please power off and disconnect everything from the board.

Set the meter to continuity mode to check for shorts at the same 3 locations:

VMOT - GND
5v - GND
3.3v - GND

If there is a short between any of these 3 rails please let me know.

Please remove the jumper from the 5v Select Header (should be in the red position) and try to check continuity between 5v and Gnd again.

If there is still a short, please let me know.

If there is no short, move the the jumper over to the green position (right 2 pins).

Check for a 5v - Gnd short again now. Let me know.

If there is no short, plug in USB cable and see if any green lights turn on.

Also, if you put the SD Card into your computer, can see the config and firmware files on it?



I tried following those tests.
I got:
Place the positive probe on VMOT. You should see a steady 24v.-- I got 23.9v
Place the positive probe on 5v. You should see a steady 5v. – I got 4.9v
Place the positive probe on 3.3v. You should see a steady 3.3v – I got 3.2v

I am assuming because of being so close in voltage it is just my meter or leads.

I then checked continuity (my meter makes a sound when touching probes together in this mode) and got

VMOT-GND = NO SOUND, but my meter read 1.17v
5V = NO SOUND, but my meter read 1.39v
3.3V = No SOUND, voltage read 0.7v

In the next part of that forum post…
“Please remove the jumper from the 5v Select Header (should be in the red position) and try to check continuity between 5v and Gnd again.”

With everything un-plugged and jumper un-plugged, I got no sound and 1.5v reading there.

I am not sure what is going on at this point.
The SD card has the correct firmware on it when checking on the computer.

I cannot upload a pic as I just registered with the forum.

Does the board work, otherwise? those voltages seem fine and well within spec. Does the board boot normally?

The LED in that position should be either green or off. I’m thinking the board may have had a red LED put where a green one should be

Hello, it doesn’t seem to work at all. I tried connecting the usb cable to my computer for Lightburn and it showed no connection in lightburn. As in there was no option in the menu to select for the machine. The options were blank so lightburn could not be started.

I then did the testing to get those readings I posted after looking at the laser board and trying to follow steps to figure out what is wrong. After posting on here, I tried to turn on the graphic LCD with everything connected and it did not turn on. I had shut the panel so I could not see the LEDs when trying to turn on the GLCD.

I then turned the power off and then tried again to see the leds with the panel open, but then only the top VMOT was red and no other LED was on, or flashing. I turned off the power and checked the page showing the LEDs colors and it says to turn off power right away as there is a short. I have not tried to test anything else or turn the power back on yet. I left the machine sit with power off to wait for input from my post.

I do know on the board for the GLCD that there is a small round component that is bent. My package had a lot of stuff in my order and I figured since the little part is only bent it should still be ok. I don’t know if that has anything to do with what is going on.

I had put a ground wire that is separate for the machine as the company recommended. There is a attachment for a ground wire on the back of the machine that is separate from the plug/cord ground. I ran a 8ga solid copper ground wire from the stud to a 8’ grounding rod I put in the yard right outside my window. I wanted to be sure I had a proper ground point as the instructions were vague about the ground wire size. I got 120.0V when testing with the original machine control panel and items.

I can’t post pics as it gave a error message saying I can’t post pics yet. I followed the step by step instructions on the website on how to connect everything. I don’t know what is wrong.

This is likely the light from the red LED “bleeding” into the green LED casing. You should be able to post pics now, please provide them so I can take a look.

This is good.

Please provide the pictures and a clear description of what the problem is, besides the LED color concern. I’m not able to understand what isn’t working.

Hello;

My original problem was that the laser board had a steady red LED for VMOT and a steady red LED for 3V3. The other LEDS were green and seemed to be fine according to a page on here that showed how to ID the LED colors and which should be flashing.

When connecting the USB cable to my computer, I tried to open lightburn and there was no options to select my machine. The options were blank so lightburn had to close as it needs an option selected to start.

Powering on the machine, the laserboard had the LED lights on and the machine itself had the laser dot on the head work and the clear lights on by the cutting table. The power unit had its power light on as well. I did not test fire anything as upgrading to all of these new parts, I no longer have a test button. The original control panel had a test button. I was going to use lightburn and do a test fire but it seems to not connect. I did install the Win 7 smoothie software and got a successful message before opening lightburn or plugging in the USB cable.

After I posted my original problem of having the 3V3 red and no connection to my computer, I tried turning on the GLCD. It does not power on. I had to re-connect its cables as I took a pic of the laser board with it removed as the cables and board connection were in the way to see the LED colors. I had the power off whenever I had to connect or unplug anything. I then turned off the power to the machine and laserboard.

I then opened the machine panel to look at the laserboard to be able to see the LEDS an attempted to try the GLCD again. This time the laser board only had the VMOT red LED and no other leds were lit. The GLCD did not turn on either.

I turned off the power and have not turned it back on since then as the info on the page said there is a short and to turn power off. I had cycled the power on and off about 6 times total. Giving at least a few minutes in between before turning power back on.

I don’t understand why the 3V3 was red and lightburn could not “see” it to start up. After the VMOT showed red and no other LEDS were on I turned of the power and have not done anything since then.

In my pics, the small power switches are for air/water pump/fan/light. They were not plugged in yet. They are wired completely separate from the machine with their own power cord and receptacles. That way they cannot interfere with anything or cause any power draw.
I included pics of everything I have modified and even a pic showing the machine when I got it to show what it looked like originally.






Any updates?

Could the GLCD cause the laserboard to be bad? I have a lot of other parts from the order and can’t test anything with them not working.

In my pic of the LEDS, they appear yellow. I used my cell phone. The leds were clearly red (VMOT and 3V3) and the rest green. I’m not sure why they look yellow in the pic.

Wow Mike, that’s a whole lot of updates before even knowing if things were working. Changing the controller, that which controls the machine for actual laser engraving, is not like just replacing a light bulb and stuff like this should be done in stages until you are well versed in all aspects of what is going on.

If it were me, I would remove the GLCD cables, make darn sure I have a file on the uSD called “config.txt” and not “config.txt.txt” or anything else. It MUST BE “config.txt” and don’t let Windows fool you regarding what the file filesystem name is. If Smoothieware is starting up correctly the LED status should be as C3D states and you should see a flash drive showing up on your PC and a USB device for Lightburn to connect to. If not, I would then disconnect everything from the C3D but the stepper motors, end stops and the 4 wire 24V/GND/5V/L connector and see if the USB drive shows up and LightBurn can connect.

Hello;

I didn’t think updating the controller and GLCD was too much to do at once. The Ma gauge is straight forward on how to wire so I didn’t think much of it to do all 3 at once. I have other parts I have not installed yet. Following the directions on the page, I thought I had to install both as the GLCD plugs into the laserboard.

I had checked the SD card for the file “config.txt” originally before power on the board. I just checked again and it is still there. I can open it on the computer (see pic).

When I downloaded and installed Smoothieware it said successful. When I opened lightburn it showed nothing connected to the computer to select. I tried closing the program and opening it again and it was the same.

That is when I had all of the LEDS on the board lit. After trying to turn on the GLCD is when the board went to just red on the VMOT and the webpage shows a short. I was getting a clearly red LED on VMOT and V3V before that.

My posted pic makes them look yellow. I’m not sure why. Maybe it’s my new phone.

I have not turned the power back on at all since seeing the “short” indicator.

All the other items like the switches are completely separate from the wiring and have their very own connections. (see pic) I installed outlets into the side of the machine to control fan/air/water by using power switches on the panel.

The temp gauges on the panel are battery powered and are for water temp in my “tank”, input side of laser tube, output side of laser tube, and power unit itself.

None of the accessories were plugged in. The machine itself has a separate ground that I used a sold wire and ground rod to make sure it was more than enough to ground the machine.

The machines own power cord has a ground and I am on a dedicated outlet for just the machine. (no other outlets in the room are on that circuit.)

I don’t know how to check or test the Smoothieware instillation. If I search in the run box on the computer, it just shows me the EXE program.

I don’t know what to do with the laser board if it is showing a short after trying to power on the GLCD. The webpage said these boards have a built in protection and to turn off power if it shows red. How do I check for a short and get it to turn back on safely?


I was referring to also doing the front panel rewiring and IIRC you said you no longer have a Laser Test button on the front panel. These laser power supplies have 2 distinct sections to them where one is all the safety, test, enable and power setting stuff and then the voltages and laser PWM control connector(24V/GND/5V/L). When you change all the first stuff and then have problems with the 2nd stuff it’s hours figuring out what you did, what’s wrong and how to solve the problem.

Especially when you are going just on step-by-step instructions and little understanding of the wiring and what is electrically going on. So it is ALWAYS better to get a system working then add individual updates one at a time testing them as you go.

Do you went into your Windows file Explorer(is that what they still call it) and checked the box to show hidden filename extensions? THAT is what I was mentioning… Microsoft by default hides things from you and it’s a PIA because it screws up tools which require a file named exactly “config.txt” and Microsoft shows you icons saying “config.txt” but on the disk it is named “config.txt.txt”.

I thought you installed Smoothieware on your controller by just copying a file named EXACTLY “firmware.bin” to it. What Smoothieware software did you install on Windows? At this point we have no clue as to if the controller is correctly booting Smoothieware and has a valid configuration to startup correctly.

Earlier it sounded like you’d decided installing the mA meter the controller and display was not a big deal but it sounds like you only installed the GLCD after you couldn’t figure out how to get the controller working with LightBurn. There are only 2 ribbon cables and well labeled connectors for the ribbon cables so unless the GLCD was being shorted out(electrically) with the mounting screws or something else it should have had no effect on the controller. I hope your ribbon cables were keyed so they could only be plugged in one way and they were cables which came with the board and display. I’m guessing you then removed the ribbon cables from the controller and it still would not power up and show the green LEDs? I hope you NEVER plugged anything into the controller while it was powered up. You’d be asking for blowing out the controller if you did not remove power when connecting things.

yes, those other things are wired to the other connectors on the laser power supply but they effect laser operation. Again, BAD idea changing things and no knowing what each does or being able to test things as you go. As for the EXE program, do you not know what that program does? Was it not explained when you downloaded it and ran it the first time? I’ve seen some of what Ray(owner of C3D) has posted and he is VERY thorough with instructions and explaining things. And the Smoothie/Smoothieware site also has instructions on what firmware.bin is, that there are many versions of that and what config.txt is. C3D would have one specifically for the K40 with the correct firmware.bin file and correctly configured config.txt file.

You keep saying “power on the GLCD” but the ones I’ve used have no extra power control at all and they are powered through the ribbon cables. Regarding the GLCD, did you get a version of firmware.bin which is for use with the GLCD? Sometimes those signals in the EXP1 and EXP2 are used for other things instead of working with a GLCD so you must have/install a firmware.bin which has been compiled to work with a GLCD.

My guess is that it is time to find Rays web pages on troubleshooting a failed installation. It sounded like something about how you connected the GLCD gravely effected the controller. Plugging the GLCD in when the C3D was powered up is a no-no and with the keyed cables, On other boards, I’ve even crossed the cables and didn’t damage the controller but never plug things in with power connected.

Hello;

"I was referring to also doing the front panel rewiring and IIRC you said you no longer have a Laser Test button on the front panel. These laser power supplies have 2 distinct sections to them where one is all the safety, test, enable and power setting stuff and then the voltages and laser PWM control connector(24V/GND/5V/L). When you change all the first stuff and then have problems with the 2nd stuff it’s hours figuring out what you did, what’s wrong and how to solve the problem.

Especially when you are going just on step-by-step instructions and little understanding of the wiring and what is electrically going on. So it is ALWAYS better to get a system working then add individual updates one at a time testing them as you go."

I should have said in my original posting that I had used the machine before upgrading. I did use the machine on and off for a few days to get used to settings, alignment of the laser, and trying burn samples on different material and thicknesses. I used K40 Whisperer when checking things out. I then installed all the new parts I bought to upgrade the machine (laser board and GLCD and Ma meter).

I kept the power supply that came with the machine and then switched out the control panel (I called it that. It has manual power level buttons) and switched out the factory laser board with this new one. I also installed the GLCD and Ma gauge.

After checking all the wiring and double checking the steps on the webpages on how to connect everything is when I first powered it on with the new parts to check things. That is when I had the 2 red LEDS on the laser board and green on the others. The machines internal clear light and red dot pointer came on. The red indicator light on the 40watt power unit was also on. There is a small “test” button on the power unit on its board near the plug in connectors. I never touched it. The original control panel had a test fire button that I used when I first burned some samples before upgrading.

“Do you went into your Windows file Explorer(is that what they still call it) and checked the box to show hidden filename extensions? THAT is what I was mentioning… Microsoft by default hides things from you and it’s a PIA because it screws up tools which require a file named exactly “config.txt” and Microsoft shows you icons saying “config.txt” but on the disk it is named “config.txt.txt”.”

I thought you installed Smoothieware on your controller by just copying a file named EXACTLY “firmware.bin” to it. What Smoothieware software did you install on Windows? At this point we have no clue as to if the controller is correctly booting Smoothieware and has a valid configuration to startup correctly.

I was following the links on the pages and went to the page:

http://smoothieware.org/windows-drivers

I have Win 7 and it installed the driver and gave me a successful message when done (a pop up). I didn’t have to use the “manual install” as it seemed to install ok. It also showed a “ready to use” after the install wizard finished. I’ll post a screen shot.

The file “config.txt” is on the SD card. I tried looking for hidden files and there is nothing it shows. The pic I posted earlier is what is on the card. It is named correctly as far as I can tell with no hidden files.

“Earlier it sounded like you’d decided installing the mA meter the controller and display was not a big deal but it sounds like you only installed the GLCD after you couldn’t figure out how to get the controller working with LightBurn. There are only 2 ribbon cables and well labeled connectors for the ribbon cables so unless the GLCD was being shorted out(electrically) with the mounting screws or something else it should have had no effect on the controller. I hope your ribbon cables were keyed so they could only be plugged in one way and they were cables which came with the board and display. I’m guessing you then removed the ribbon cables from the controller and it still would not power up and show the green LEDs? I hope you NEVER plugged anything into the controller while it was powered up. You’d be asking for blowing out the controller if you did not remove power when connecting things.”

I had installed all the items into the new panel before powering on the machine. Everything was mounted and ready. The ribbon cables are correctly installed (I had to remove them in my pic showing the LEDS color farther above) They can only go into the plugs 1 way. The little “jumper board” they plug into is also in the correct spot as in the webpages pictures.

I made sure to allow a minute or two after powering off to plug/unplug anything as I noticed when powering off that the LEDS on the laser board, and the light on the machines power unit, stay on for a few seconds after powering off. I wanted to make sure the power had completely stopped to everything before plugging in or unplugging anything.

“yes, those other things are wired to the other connectors on the laser power supply but they effect laser operation. Again, BAD idea changing things and no knowing what each does or being able to test things as you go. As for the EXE program, do you not know what that program does? Was it not explained when you downloaded it and ran it the first time? I’ve seen some of what Ray(owner of C3D) has posted and he is VERY thorough with instructions and explaining things. And the Smoothie/Smoothieware site also has instructions on what firmware.bin is, that there are many versions of that and what config.txt is. C3D would have one specifically for the K40 with the correct firmware.bin file and correctly configured config.txt file.”

The EXE program I was referring to is the downloaded program. It shows: smoothieware-us-b-driver-v1.1.exe

It was on the page: http://smoothieware.org/windows-drivers

I don’t see where it explains anything about what it does, or how it runs on that page. It just shows how to install it. It appeared straight forward and the windows install wizard ran and installed it.

I’ll attach a pic of it showing it installed on the computer.

“You keep saying “power on the GLCD” but the ones I’ve used have no extra power control at all and they are powered through the ribbon cables. Regarding the GLCD, did you get a version of firmware.bin which is for use with the GLCD? Sometimes those signals in the EXP1 and EXP2 are used for other things instead of working with a GLCD so you must have/install a firmware.bin which has been compiled to work with a GLCD.”

I’m not sure how to word it correctly. I say “power on” as I tried to turn the knob, and tried to gently press on the knob (it makes a click when pressing) after trying multiple times to get my computer to “see” the machine. I thought the knob is an on-off feature to power on the screen as well as work as a selector in the menus.

The screen never came on at any time or on any machine power ups. It simple stayed “off” at all times. I thought the knob had to “turn it on”. I had not tried to “turn it on” until after taking the pics. I assumed it would be off until after the lightburn software connected and I would have to manually “turn on” the GLCD. I didn’t know it was supposed to power on by itself.

The ribbons are connected correctly and the small little jumper board they connect to is positioned correctly per the pics in the installation process. The only time I didn’t have the ribbons connected with power on the laser board was when I took the pic of the LED colors. I couldn’t find an angle to take the pic at to see the LEDS with the ribbons plugged in. I made sure to Never plug or unplug anything while power was on.

The GLCD is connected just like in the pics. The GLCD does have a smashed little connector. I had assumed it was fine as the solder points look ok. I will use a pic of it from the site and circle the little connector. It is at an angle and pushed over a little. The solder joints don’t look broken, it’s just bent. There was a lot of items in the package and they way it was all put together had other items on top of that part. Everything was overly wrapped in bubble wrap but it still managed to squeeze everything.

So its possible the GLCD is what caused the laserboard to now show a short? I had powered the unit on and off probably around 5-6 times over a period of a half hour. The LEDS on the laser board were working until I tried clicking the knob on the GLCD. That is when I noticed the laser board went to only a VMOT red light and nothing else.

If my volt readings in the top of the post were ok for the laser board, shouldn’t the GLCD have been “on”? So it is sounding like the GLCD was DOA and it caused the laser board to short.

How would I test the GLCD if it never turned on even though everything was connected correctly?

Now that the laser board shows a short (red VMOT) How do I test it? Is it fixable?

knob

I know I am going to be ridiculed for this post, but that is ok.

So I have gone through everything. I have traced every wire and every plug. Everything is exactly as it is pictured on the pages showing how to connect everything.

At no time did I ever plug or unplug anything with power on. In fact I let the machine sit a minute or two at minimum before doing anything to make sure power was totally drained from any part.

After looking at Youtube videos, it is clear the GLCD was DOA that I received, or not getting power from the laserboard. I didn’t know it was to light up and be “on” as soon as power to the laserboard was supplied. My GLCD never lit up or did anything at all, ever.

The laserboard clearly had a red LED on the 3V3. I even put my head closer to see it was red. All the other LEDS were correct color. Reading about LED colors didn’t address a red LED that shows no power to the “brain” but have other leds on. The other green lights flashed like they should.

Only after many attempts trying to get the computer to “see” the machine and laserboard did I attempt to “turn on” the GLCD. I had assumed the entire time the knob turned it on and off. Videos show it comes on automatically.

Testing Voltage and connections (initial post) showed different readings, but I was told they appear fine. After trying to get the GLCD to “turn on” is when the laserboard went to red VMOT only, showing a short. HOW??? It had been powered on around 5 times in a 30 min window. Only after pressing and turning the knob on the GLCD did it go to a “short”.

I cannot even test all the other parts I had in my orders.
I bought:
LightBurn Camera, camera mount, install, Beam buddy head, C3D laserboard, GLCD w/adapter, Lightburn G code, external stepper driver cables. I got the Ma gauge and external stepper driver from Amazon so I have just short of $600 in parts not including the stepper driver and Ma gauge.

I only mention this to show the parts and then the cost of a K40 ate up my entire stimulus. I was planning on making things to sell to raise money. I can’t revert back to the old laserboard and controller because I had to modify and cut the panel for this new arrangement. I would have no way to mount the original control panel without making an entirely new panel to hold it.

I followed every step in the pages on how to connect everything. (Ma gauge, laserboard, and GLCD) I have not installed the camera or laser head or stepper driver(stepper driver is for later for a rotary). I can’t even use lightburn because my original machines laserboard is not supported and with this new laserboard not connecting I can’t use lightburn at all.

I can’t find anywhere on how to fix or correct the “short” on the laserboard. I don’t see a micro fuse switch or anything in my pic on the circuit board to see how to fix it. I have no idea about the GLCD.

I was not able to test or install my parts within the 7 days or receiving per the DOA policy. I have been dealing with extreme home damage from a Derecho and FEMA. Part of the reason I added a dedicated breaker box outlet was to make sure there was no issues with any power/ground. I wanted it seperate from the rest of the homes circuits/outlets.

I also had to deal with and spend time away for mental health reasons. I am in an active vicious civil rights violation lawsuit against my mobile home parks manager and owners. I’m on my own with no help from lawyers as I have no money to pay for one. I have severe retaliation, and criminal acts, occurring against me for my complaints. I even had eviction letters for non-payment and had to show proof of payments clearing their bank. This resulted in me having to get help at a mental facility for severe depression, anxiety, and suicidal acts.

I am months past the return window because of all the issues. My counselor/therapist keeps bringing up if I have the laser machine working as she is trying to “force” me into doing something that would benefit my mental health and to distract from the daily severe stresses.

I had a severe attack/breakdown during our visit because the parts and machine don’t work and I cannot figure out how to make them work. I cannot afford to buy parts again as I am on disability and used the one and only stimulus check to buy the parts and the machine. (I am an adult dependant and we were excluded from all stimulus packages until this very last one)

I have looked at the smoothie install and see where people with Win 7 64bit have to modify the ini file. I made a copy, but can’t do anything as the laserboard is only showing red on VMOT. I turned the power on for the first time since it showed the short and it is still the same.

The screen shots on the page show it will install and show “ready to use” and then show failed after connecting. I am wondering if that is part of my issues. I can’t check it as the laserboard is not working.

I know I will be blasted for discussing my mental health. I brought it up because I know some people will say why didn’t I test the parts within the return window timeframe. I had to seek help for mental health and was not able to work on the machine at all nor did I have any interest at the time due to depression and other issues. It’s my fault for not testing them right away and my fault for changing out more than one piece at a time without checking the function of each piece.

If there is any links to pages on how to try and fix the laserboard and GLCD, I would greatly appreciate it. For now, I have a “dead” laser machine and need to fix the items to get it working again.

No one here will “blast you” for discussing mental health concerns, and I am (hopefully) happy that you were able to seek out and get the help you needed. There have been times where I have simply had too much going on and had to put things aside just to be able to get through one day at a time.

In the last few months alone, I have been short staffed here, while working on getting, then fixing up, and finally moving into a new home, and am still very much in the “I have too many things going on and I’m exhausted” mindset. A lot to handle, but nothing compared to what you describe.

Sometimes we just need to stop, take a step back and a break, and come back with a clear head and work out a plan.

As far as debugging the issues, the problem is that there are some huge blocks of text you’ve written that I have to parse through, and I’m having difficulty figuring out what things we are trying to solve.

I would encourage you to take a breather, and then let’s identify and work through the issues one at a time.


Let’s pick the big one:

Ok, so originally, the green lights were on and blinking as per “normal operation” but now only the red light is on. Is that correct?

Please show me pictures of everything connected to the board and how it is wired up now.

THEN, disconnect everything from the board except for the sd card, plug the power brick back into it, and see if anything has changed.


This is how technical debugging must be done.

I figured I would get harassed or made fun of (like on other forums) bringing up mental health issues. I was trying to sort of outline why it has taken me so long to install the parts. With so much bad stuff going on I had to spend a few days in a “shelter house” when I first received the parts. Due to not getting medical care for severe spinal issues for years, and all the other issues, I had been having (what I thought was small) attacks. I was told my “small” anxiety attacks were “severe” and our local crisis center sent workers to my home and they had me go to a “shelter house” to avoid a hospital committal for treatment. Even in their care I was having such severe attacks and depression they kept me on a 30 min “check” 24/7 for the entire time I was there. (I guess standard policy) to make sure I didn’t go through with things. That was stressful in itself having people check on you constantly.

I have been on different meds and have only slightly improved. I have a lot of physical medical conditions so going years with really no medical care and then all the civil rights issues and everything is so overwhelming I just stopped doing anything that would be “personal time”. The consoler I see has brought up my laser machine, thinking it would be a good distraction, but because it is not working it just creates more stress.

Based on your description of having to put things aside sometimes sounds like you know what it’s like when things start to get too much. I seem to have daily build up of problems so I can’t really get away from it all. (mainly retaliation from my parks manager because of my civil rights complaint)

I do know moving into a house can be stressful. Years ago I ran a small moving company. I saw firsthand how people would be very stressed out. Sometimes it was evictions, sometimes it was moving items from a family member that died. I can appreciate and relate to the stress you have when moving. It can be very stressful and overwhelming at times.

Our mobile home has $40,000 in damage from the Derecho that hit the Midwest last year. I am still appealing FEMA and we only got $2,500 for repairs. That will not cover anything. We still have tarps over the walls and roof to try and stop the weather from getting in. Not to mention all the other home issue from the storm. So the home damage is very stressful.

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I did write a lot. I am bad at making things short. I figured the more info I can put the better. I realize now that it can make it hard for someone else to follow along as I have so much listed at once. I will try to kept things shorter while trouble shooting so I can communicate better.

Ok, so originally, the green lights were on and blinking as per “normal operation” but now only the red light is on. Is that correct?

Yes, all the LEDS were operating as “normal”. The only thing is the 3V3 LED was red instead of green. I had looked closer at it, and it was definitely red. Above it was commented maybe the LED color was installed as a red by mistake, or maybe the red from VMOT was “bleeding” into it to make it look red. In my cell phone pic, it looks like they are yellow. It definitely went VMOT-red, 3V3-red, L4-green, L3-green flashing, L2-green flashing, L1-green.

Then it went red VMOT and no other lights after trying to get the GLCD to “turn on”. (I thought I had to manually turn on the screen by turning or pushing the knob)

I now un-plugged everything and turned the power on. It just shows the red VMOT only. I waited about 30 seconds and nothing changed so I turned off the power.

I took pics right before trying that process now. I tried different pic angles. I took pics right before trying that process now. I tried different pic angles. The last pic shows the laserboard still showing just the red VMOT.

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In the pics you will see Orange colored connectors. I used them to connect wires when needed. It allows me to add connections to them, and/or remove/replace wires as they have snap shut connections. The orange connections next to the power unit and laserboard go to the white LED light strip that came with the machine. It allows me to turn it on and off. I made sure to carefully trace and probe the wires when connecting to make sure they were not switched. (the little cable wire had dashes and + marks) The white light functions fine with the switch.

The other orange connectors seen to the right rear of the power unit are for all the wiring for the outlets I installed. None of them are plugged in. I put outlets on the side of the machine that are switch controlled to activate the fan/pump/air. I put an input power plug so it is all separate from the machine. It doesn’t even share the ground circuit. It’s all independent. I have not plugged them in yet and they were never plugged in or on at anytime.

The larger red and black wires on the panel lid go to that stuff (other than the main power switch for the machine)

The white wires on the left side go to the Ma gauge and to the white LED strip light wires.

Pics of the GLCD show different angles. The nuts holding it to the panel are only finger tight. I didn’t use any tools, I just gently tightened them to make sure they would not get “over tight”.

I hope this give a view to better see what I have. I can take more pics if need to see specific areas.

Bumping to prevent closing of topic.
Any ideas what is happening?

Ok, so just red light on the board. Can you try unplugging some things to see if that changes?

In particular the whole GLCD/ Adapter block, but if that doesn’t change anything may as well unplug everything and try again. And again with SD card removed.

Leave for a minute each time, we’re looking to see if any green lights at all come on at any point.

I un-plugged the GLCD/Adapter block and made sure all the other plugs were tight. I turned on the power and the LEDS on the laser board turned on and light up.

It appears all leds are working right now with the GLCD Not connected. I have steady green on L1. LEDS L2, L3 are green and flashing fast. L4 is steady green and 3V3 is steady red. VMOT is steady red.

The VMOT brightness is much more intense than all the other LEDS. Maybe it is causing 3V3 to look red instead of green because of it.

I had the card inserted during this test and left power on for 1 min. I did not plug in the usb cord into the computer. I left it disconnected.

All the LEDS remained the same during this test.

In my pic, it looks like L2, L3 are off. They are not. They are just flashing fast and my camera pic missed them being on at that moment.

Should I try plugging in the GLCD to the board? or should I attempt to leave it disconnected and try plugging the USB to the computer to attempt to get light burn to “see” the laser board before doing anything with the GLCD?

(I am guessing we should continue with the laser board to make sure the computer can see it before going to other components/parts.)

I attempted to try and get my computer to respond to the laser board. I am having driver issues.

I did try a different usb cable so I’m not using the blue one. I have another cable (black )from my printer that works.

I have tried everything following the pages showing issues with drivers.

If the USB cable is Not connected to the computer, installing the exe installer gets the “ready to use” that is pictured in my original posting way up the page. The “uberclock,LLC” driver name picture. If I plug in the USB cable and try installing the exe, it shows “failed”. I have to have the USB cable Not connected to get it to show “ready to use”.

I tried the manual install. I saved the ZIP and tried “updating driver”. I get a message of:

“A service installation section in this INF is invalid”

I looked and saw people with Win 7 have issues. I put in the line that says:

“usbser.sys,0x20” into the INF file. Still no change in install.

I tied these steps using the blue cable. Then I used my black printer cable.

The screen shots on the page:

are what I am seeing. After using the black cord, I got the device manager to show “smoothie serial” for once, like in the pics on that page. I tried following the manual install shown on the page:

http://smoothieware.org/windows-drivers

At the steps toward the bottom of that page, it says:

“You should now have a recognized “Smoothie Virtual Serial Port”.” I don’t. I get the same problems where it says “…INF invalid” and the driver details tab saying: “No driver files are required or have been loaded for this device”

I have Win 7 pro 64 bit Intel i7-6700 3.40Ghz 16gb ram if this info helps.

I am assuming the GLCD would not have to be connected to have the laser board and drivers respond with the computer.

I am lost at this point as to why the drivers will not install.

You don’t need the GLCD connected for the board to work, perhaps it was wired up incorrectly or there was another issue and the board was protecting itself in the case of a short.

It does sound like your board is actually working, which is a good sign.

At this point I would check if you actually have a COM port (COM followed by some number) in Device Manager. Does it or does it not?

After using the black cord, I got the device manager to show “smoothie serial” for once, like in the pics on that page.

It would likely be where this is written now. Please show a screenshot of your device manager and the relevant area.

At this point I would check if you actually have a COM port (COM followed by some number) in Device Manager. Does it or does it not?

Yes, I get a COM port. The number will change each time I plug something in. So right now it changed from COM17 to COM18 to then Smoothie serial.

After using the black cord, I got the device manager to show “smoothie serial” for once, like in the pics on that page.

It would likely be where this is written now. Please show a screenshot of your device manager and the relevant area.

It doesn’t show the name “smoothie serial” like before when first plugging in the USB cable. It just has the a COM number. At first it was COM17. I took some screen shots. When I tried “scan for hardware changes”, it changed to COM18. I tried a different USB port to see if it would go back to COM 17, or if it would change to another number. It instead shows “smoothie serial” after unplugging and plugging into the same USB port and clicking “scan for hardware changes”.

In the driver details, it still shows the same info of no driver installed. I will post pics in order of how this appears.

Showing 1st attempt plugging in to USB:



The INF file folder:
6

When attempting to try installing the EXE file


I noticed it will always show Failed IF the USB cord is plugged into the computer. If the USB cord is Not plugged into the computer, it will say “ready to use”.

After trying 2 different USB ports and clicking scan for hardware changes, it labeled the port “smoothie serial”. It still shows no driver installed though.

Use the good USB Cable, get COM17 or whatever it is, and try to connect with LightBurn.

The board works. You might need to put clean files on the memory card to rule that out as an issue.

Win 7 is unfortunately 12 years old at this point, and a pain to deal with. Microsoft has announced it is end of life. This should all work natively in Win 10.